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Subject : Re: [Anaglyphs] Choir/ Marshall/Reply
From : "Marshall Rubin"
To :
Date : Sat, 16 Mar 2013 00:26:18 -0400

110159_Step_4.jpg :
110159_Step_5a.jpg :
110159_Step_5b.jpg :
110159_Step_6.jpg :

 

Larry--
 
Here are the remaining steps I used to improve your posting.  I should have mentioned earlier that all these steps should be applied
to a duplicate of the original stereo pair.

Step 4: I usually prefer to only use Image>Adjustments>Curves, but in this case I also used Image>Brightness/Contrast at settings
shown in Step 5a.  Use this only if by applying Step 4 the result appears too muddy. If this step isn't yet fully satisfactory, undo
and go to the next step.
 
Step 5a:  I first applied Curves adjustment in Step 4, but didn't like the results, so I undid Step 4 and applied the settings
as shown in here.  Notice how the surrounded area now more closely resembles its counterpart of the left chip.
 
Step 5b: I applied Curves to the surrounded area, starting in the exact center coordinate and diagonally dragging down and to the right,
while observing how the action enriched the area surrounded by the Lasso.  Once I got close as possible to matching the values of the
corresponding area in the left chip, I pressed the Okay button to apply the fix. Thanks to the feathering setting of 40, the fix smoothly blends
in with the rest of the picture.
 
Step 6:  Shows the result of applying the Curves setting (notice the slight arc of the diagonal line in the Settings box).  In this case I boosted contrast through use of the Brightness/Contrast setting.  In most cases I would use Curves exclusively, but here I needed the added contrast, so I
first applied Brightness/Contrast and then used Curves.
 
Finally once I was satisfied that the fixed area was a near-perfect match with the left chip. I duplicated the attached stereo pair,
cropped off a left, and then a right chip, and imported them into SPM for alignment, stereo window adjustment, and conversion to
ana.  Then the finished image was opened in PS CS5, and inspected for possible tweaks, like brightening and sharpening.
Then I saved the finished stereoview as a PSD (Photoshop file), re-converted and re-sized a copy as a jpeg, that I Saved for the Web,
and posted on-line.
 
At first these steps may seem a bit scary and lengthy, but once you practice this technique, the entire process often takes up
less than five minutes!
 
Marshall
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

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